Cordovan shoes are a true luxury - rare, beautiful, and durable when cared for properly. Often called the "jewel of leather", this stunning material comes from the dense fibrous shell layer of horsehide, giving it that unique, deep shine. But cordovan has its quirks: it's vulnerable to moisture and can develop a cloudy, whitish haze in creased areas.
At Classic Shoe Valet & CO., I take pride in using a combination of Saphir Medaille d'Or products and premium tools like Paul Brunngard brushes to bring out the best in cordovan. Here's a step-by-step guide using my Alden Shell Cordovan No. 8 Indy Boots from The Stronghold - a pair that's broken in beautifully.
Before
After
Cordovan boots and shoes are a true investment-renowned for their rich depth and signature glow, they're often called the jewel of leather. But with all that beauty comes delicacy. Cordovan is known to be sensitive to moisture and prone to developing a white, cloudy finish over time. At Classic Shoe Valet & Co., we believe your cordovan deserves nothing short of expert care using the finest tools and products available.
Inspired by techniques from industry leaders like U.S. Shoe Shine Champion Levi Elliot, here's how we keep cordovan looking its absolute best-with the right blend of knowledge, products, and patience.
Why is Cordovan Is Special
Cordovan is made from the dense, fibrous layer beneath the skin on a horse's hindquarters-crafted into leather through an intensive, months-long process. The result is leather that's not only incredibly durable but also capable of a stunning, glass-like shine.
But its high density and oil-rich composition also make it susceptible to water and clouding, especially along creases and flex points. That's where proper technique and product selection become essential.
Our Step-by-Step Cordovan Care Process
- Surface Cleaning - Go Plant Based Start with a gentle yet effective cleaner. We use Saphir's Plant -Based Dry Cleaner, which lifts dirt without oversaturating or damaging the leather. Cordovan is moisture-sensitive, so this dry-cleaning approach is key to maintaining its structure.
2. Tame the Fluff Creased areas often show whitish fluff. Using a deer bone, cassa stick, or polished abby horn, we gently compress the fibers and smooth the surface. If those aren't available, a spoon with rounded edges works in a pinch-just be careful not to scratch the leather.
3. Apply Cordovan Cream We trust Saphir Medaille d'Or Cordovan Cream for nourishment, color restoration (especially for Alden's famous Color 8), and surface protection. Apply with your fingers and let the cream settle in.
4. Re-smooth with Burnishing Tools After the cream sets, rework the creases with your burnishing tool of choice. This helps the oils and waxes settle deeper and contributes to the smooth, glassy finish cordovan is known for.
5. Finish with THE WAX - Less Water, More Control Mirror polishing cordovan is where finesse really matter. We use THE WAX, a low-oil, high-wax polish designed for maximum shine with minimal buildup. Use significantly less water than you would for calf leather-about 80% less. This avoids over-saturation and prevents cloudy patches.
Brush Matter: Why We Use Paul Brunngard
At Boot Camp, Levi Elliot introduced us to Paul Brunngard brushes-crafted from solid walnut, hand-plugged, and available in Yak, Goat, Horsehair, and Boar bristles. These are now our go-to brushes. Their unique design, outward-directed bristles, and exceptional density make them perfect for detailing cordovan without risking abrasion.
Trust the Pros
If your cordovan shoes have taken on rain damage or you've lost their luster, don't risk overdoing it. Our Online Shoeshine Service is available to restore your investment properly using professional techniques and premium Saphir products.
Let's keep your footwear shining as brightly as your passion for them.
Visit www.classicshoevalet.com to learn more or to schedule a care service.
Step into the season right-polished, prepared, and timeless.
